The path to the top of Balmoral Hill, a treeless knoll above The Narrows, is faint, steep and boggy. Short squalls test the wet-weather gear on the way up. After about an hour’s climb, it’s time for the reward: an awe-inspiring 360-degree panorama over the rugged and otherworldly beauty of Tasmania’s south-west. Fjords, mountains and islands stretch all around, forming an epic, entirely untamed wilderness. To top off the experience, you may well be the only people there.
Luxury can be defined as a condition of abundance or great ease and comfort. For passengers on the Odalisque III, the focus is squarely on comfort. Coming back from one of the many outings offered on an On Board expedition into the wild, you’re bound to be wet, muddy and exhilarated. That’s when the comfort of a drying room, a heated cabin, a hot shower and a stiff drink or a steaming cup of tea in the onboard lounge becomes the epitome of luxury.
To cruise on Odalisque III is to experience understated elegance with an air of sophistication. The meals are refined versions of comfort food with a strong focus on Tasmanian produce, designed to replenish energy. The star, however, is neither the ship nor the meals. It’s the grandeur and remoteness of Tasmania’s wild country. Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour and their countless nooks and crannies within the World Heritage-listed Southwest National Park set the stage for an unforgettable experience.
The elements determine the cruise itinerary. The skipper and guides make countless important decisions that are essential to ensure maximum enjoyment and optimal safety in such a challenging environment. “The weather is capricious,” admits guide Peter Marmion, whose enormous knowledge earnt him the nickname Wikipete. “I’m enchanted by the landscape. I like the remoteness, and the fact that we are the only people here at the moment is a great source of pleasure for me.”
To visit on your own, you’d need to be well prepared and highly experienced. But if you join an On Board journey, you put yourself in the hands of skipper and company owner Pieter van der Woude, his crew and guides. An On Board expedition is not a cruise in the traditional sense. The Odalisque III serves more as a floating base camp within this formidable landscape. Purpose-built to be able to operate in a pristine and delicate environment, the ship accommodates a maximum of 12 passengers. All cabins have ensuites, and large windows offer ever-changing views.
chef Courtney Drew in her domain; elegant dinner setting; fresh oysters as a reward for climbing Mt Beattie.
The ship shifts to a new anchorage to find fresh grounds for exploration a few times during a trip. The potential is endless. A Jurassic world of pristine rivers, countless islands, deserted beaches and windswept mountains is accessed via sturdy and powerful dinghies. A dose of pioneering history with a visit to Claytons Corner and Melaleuca adds to the natural wonders. Then it’s back to the Odalisque III, a safe and comforting cocoon within the dramatic wilds of the south-west.
The adventure starts and ends with a seaplane flight that provides the perfect introduction and finale. From the air, the isolation, grandeur and ruggedness of this extraordinary place will leave an indelible impression. “This landscape weaves a magic on people,” Peter says.
